Practical advice from people who've been in the trade for over 30 years. Whether you're buying for the first time or replacing old flooring, we're here to help you make the right choice.
Getting a rough measurement before you come to see us — or before you call — means you'll have a much better idea of cost, and we can give you a more accurate quote over the phone. Here's how to do it.
Measure the longest length of the room, and the widest width. Always measure wall to wall, at the widest points — don't try to subtract for alcoves or chimney breasts at this stage. Write both numbers down in metres.
For a simple rectangular room, that's all you need. Multiply length × width to get the area in square metres (m²).
Carpet comes in rolls — typically 4 metres wide. Depending on your room's shape and which direction you lay the carpet, there will always be some waste cut off the edges. As a rough guide, add 10–15% to your square metre total to account for this.
This is one of the reasons it's worth having us visit to measure properly — an experienced eye can work out the most efficient way to cut from the roll and minimise waste, which saves you money.
For rooms that aren't a simple rectangle — L-shapes, rooms with bay windows, or rooms with alcoves — break the space into rectangles, measure each one separately, and add them together. Again, don't try to be too precise at this stage. A rough total is fine for getting a ballpark price.
Stairs are measured differently. Measure one step (the depth of the tread plus the height of the riser — typically about 50–55cm per step), multiply by the width of the staircase, then multiply by the number of steps. Add a little extra for the landing and the bottom step.
This is probably the question we get asked most. There's no single right answer — it depends on your room, your lifestyle, and what matters most to you. Here's a straight look at both.
Most homes benefit from a mix of both. Hard floors in kitchens, hallways and bathrooms. Carpet in bedrooms, living rooms, and stairs. This way you get the practical advantages of hard flooring where it matters most, and the comfort and warmth of carpet where you actually spend time relaxing.
If you've ever looked at a carpet label or a product description and seen something like "Class 22" or "heavy domestic," you might have wondered what it means in practice. Here's a plain-English explanation.
All carpet sold in the UK and Europe is tested and rated on a scale that combines two things: the type of use (domestic or commercial) and the intensity of that use. The ratings run from Class 21 (lightest domestic) to Class 34 (heaviest commercial).
The wear rating is a guide, not a guarantee. A Class 31 carpet that's looked after properly will outlast a Class 23 carpet in a busy hallway — that's the whole point. But it's not the only factor. The quality of the fibre, the density of the pile, and the underlay all play a big role too.
You may also see carpet described by its pile weight (in grams per square metre, or g/m²) or its twist count. Heavier pile weight and a tighter twist generally means a more durable, better-looking carpet over time. As a rough guide, for living rooms and hallways look for a pile weight of at least 35 oz (around 1,200 g/m²).
If all this sounds complicated — don't worry. When you come to see us, we'll look at your rooms, listen to how you use them, and recommend the right carpet for your situation. That's what we're here for.
Get a Free RecommendationWe're always happy to give straight, no-pressure advice. Come in, call us, or book a free home measuring visit.
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