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Free Flooring Advice

Flooring Guides &
Helpful Tips

Practical advice from people who've been in the trade for over 30 years. Whether you're buying for the first time or replacing old flooring, we're here to help you make the right choice.

Our Guides


Guide 1

How to Measure a Room for Carpet

Getting a rough measurement before you come to see us — or before you call — means you'll have a much better idea of cost, and we can give you a more accurate quote over the phone. Here's how to do it.

What you'll need

  • A tape measure (at least 5 metres)
  • A pen and paper, or your phone's notepad
  • Someone to help hold the tape is useful but not essential

Step 1: Measure the length and width

Measure the longest length of the room, and the widest width. Always measure wall to wall, at the widest points — don't try to subtract for alcoves or chimney breasts at this stage. Write both numbers down in metres.

For a simple rectangular room, that's all you need. Multiply length × width to get the area in square metres (m²).

Example: A room that's 4.2m long × 3.6m wide = 15.12m². Round up slightly for wastage — call it 16m².

Step 2: Allow for wastage

Carpet comes in rolls — typically 4 metres wide. Depending on your room's shape and which direction you lay the carpet, there will always be some waste cut off the edges. As a rough guide, add 10–15% to your square metre total to account for this.

This is one of the reasons it's worth having us visit to measure properly — an experienced eye can work out the most efficient way to cut from the roll and minimise waste, which saves you money.

Step 3: L-shaped or awkward rooms

For rooms that aren't a simple rectangle — L-shapes, rooms with bay windows, or rooms with alcoves — break the space into rectangles, measure each one separately, and add them together. Again, don't try to be too precise at this stage. A rough total is fine for getting a ballpark price.

Step 4: Don't forget the stairs

Stairs are measured differently. Measure one step (the depth of the tread plus the height of the riser — typically about 50–55cm per step), multiply by the width of the staircase, then multiply by the number of steps. Add a little extra for the landing and the bottom step.

Our advice: Use your own measurements to get a rough budget in mind. Then let us come and measure properly — it's free, there's no obligation, and our measurements are guaranteed. We measure hundreds of rooms a year and we know all the tricks to get it right.
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Guide 2

Carpet vs Hard Floor — Which is Right for You?

This is probably the question we get asked most. There's no single right answer — it depends on your room, your lifestyle, and what matters most to you. Here's a straight look at both.

The case for carpet

  • Warmth and comfort. Carpet is warmer underfoot and retains heat better than hard floors. This matters more than people realise in a cold house.
  • Noise. Carpet absorbs sound — footsteps, voices, the TV. If you have children, live in a flat, or just prefer a quieter home, carpet makes a genuine difference.
  • Safety. Carpet is softer to fall on — an important consideration for households with young children or elderly family members.
  • Cost. A good quality carpet with underlay is often cheaper than a comparable hard floor, particularly LVT or engineered wood.
  • Cosiness. This one sounds simple, but a bedroom with carpet feels different to one with hard floors. For sleeping spaces, most people still prefer it.

The case for hard floors (LVT, laminate, engineered wood, vinyl)

  • Easy to clean. Spills wipe up. No staining, no deep-cleaning. Ideal for kitchens, hallways, and homes with pets.
  • Allergies. Hard floors don't harbour dust mites or pet dander in the same way. If anyone in the house has allergies or asthma, this can make a real difference.
  • Durability in wet areas. Vinyl and LVT are waterproof — perfect for kitchens, bathrooms, and utility rooms where carpet would be a risk.
  • Contemporary look. Hard floors are popular right now, and work well with open-plan spaces and modern interiors.
  • Longevity. A quality LVT or engineered wood floor, properly maintained, can outlast carpet by many years.

Our recommendation

Most homes benefit from a mix of both. Hard floors in kitchens, hallways and bathrooms. Carpet in bedrooms, living rooms, and stairs. This way you get the practical advantages of hard flooring where it matters most, and the comfort and warmth of carpet where you actually spend time relaxing.

Not sure? Come into the showroom and we'll talk it through with you — no pressure, no sales pitch. We've helped thousands of local customers make this decision and we'll give you straight advice based on your specific rooms and situation.
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Guide 3

What Do Carpet Wear Ratings Actually Mean?

If you've ever looked at a carpet label or a product description and seen something like "Class 22" or "heavy domestic," you might have wondered what it means in practice. Here's a plain-English explanation.

The EU wear rating system

All carpet sold in the UK and Europe is tested and rated on a scale that combines two things: the type of use (domestic or commercial) and the intensity of that use. The ratings run from Class 21 (lightest domestic) to Class 34 (heaviest commercial).

Domestic use classes

  • Class 21 — Light Domestic: Bedrooms and rooms with very low foot traffic. Fine for a spare room or a bedroom that doesn't see much use.
  • Class 22 — Medium Domestic: Standard bedrooms and dining rooms. A decent everyday carpet for rooms that are used regularly but not heavily.
  • Class 23 — General Domestic: Living rooms, family rooms. The minimum we'd recommend for any main living area. Handles everyday family life.
  • Class 31 — Light Contract / Heavy Domestic: Busy living rooms, hallways, stairs. This is the sweet spot for most family homes. Worth the extra investment.
  • Class 32 — General Contract: Hallways, stairs, very busy family areas. The hardest-wearing domestic carpet available.

Commercial use classes

  • Class 33 — Heavy Contract: Offices, hotels, retail spaces. Very high durability — also used in homes with exceptional traffic.
  • Class 34 — Heavy Contract (Intense): The highest rating. Public buildings, airports, heavy commercial use.

What this means when you're buying

The wear rating is a guide, not a guarantee. A Class 31 carpet that's looked after properly will outlast a Class 23 carpet in a busy hallway — that's the whole point. But it's not the only factor. The quality of the fibre, the density of the pile, and the underlay all play a big role too.

Our rule of thumb: For bedrooms, a Class 22 or 23 is usually fine. For living rooms, aim for at least Class 23 — ideally 31. For hallways and stairs, always go Class 31 or above. Don't be tempted to save money on a lighter rating for a heavy-traffic area — you'll end up replacing it much sooner.

What about twist ratings and pile weight?

You may also see carpet described by its pile weight (in grams per square metre, or g/m²) or its twist count. Heavier pile weight and a tighter twist generally means a more durable, better-looking carpet over time. As a rough guide, for living rooms and hallways look for a pile weight of at least 35 oz (around 1,200 g/m²).

If all this sounds complicated — don't worry. When you come to see us, we'll look at your rooms, listen to how you use them, and recommend the right carpet for your situation. That's what we're here for.

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Still Got Questions?

We're always happy to give straight, no-pressure advice. Come in, call us, or book a free home measuring visit.

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